Yes it can there are sanding kits you can buy that start from a course to super fine grade each grade removes the one before. Finish with a polish and hey presto good as new. This is the same way there fix the real ones. (10 hours ago)Leslie Applebee:
If it's just the clouding that's the problem and not the adhesion part just drip a little pledge or future over the cloudy bit and it'll clear up. If you can use one of those small microbrushes you can almost polish it out. (10 hours ago)Eric O'Brien:
Where might I acquire this mystical "Pledge" you speak of? 1 (10 hours ago)Rob Tracz:
Have a look at this Eric, it's not the one I was looking for but it'll give you an idea what needs to be done www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ooir8nyZqM4 1 (9 hours ago)Rob Tracz:
Here's another one Eric www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkT316_HNTU 1 (9 hours ago)Alfred Stolfa:
Oh, noooooooooooooooooooo Eric !
The previous responses have given you some great pointers.
A couple more.
There's no really good reason to be using superglue/cyanoacrylate on clear parts. Thus, you avoid the propensity that superglue has to cloud/fog clear parts that you cannot hide with paint. If we are talking about attaching parts at a single point (like a rear view mirror inside a canopy for example), then use a clear drying PVA, Microscale Kristal Klear, Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. In the event that your PE parts have to be adhered on long edge or surface or need to conform to the curvature of part of the clear part/canopy, I recommend annealing the PE part first to improve its ductility, and form it to the required curvature/profile, so that you can use the glues I've mentioned.
These glues all dry clear and don't fog/marr clear parts.
Some people even use Future/Pledge to adhere small fragile parts that do not weight much. There is a similar Humbrol (acrylic) product - Humbrol Clear (note the bottle style). It has a similar consistency to Future.
Local hobby vendors should be able to fulfil these requirements. (9 hours ago)
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